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Metro is more of a reincarnation than a newborn. The brasserie moved into the former Foodbar space, mourned by many downtowners following its abrupt closure. Faulty design is thought to be the ghoul behind Foodbar’s demise—primarily the shotgun aisle patrons struggled to navigate. Metro’s planners have expanded and re-tooled the space, turning property potential into stylish, roomy reality—not to mention an oyster bar.
Taylor may be sparse in years, but he boasts a resume with a trajectory to the moon. Just to hit the highlights, he worked as a line cook at Wrigley Mansion, moved to Mosaic under the guidance of Chef Deborah Knight, then landed as sous chef at The Phoenician’s renowned Mary Elaine’s, where he honed his skills in French cooking under the tutelage of James Beard Award winner Bradford Thompson. Oh yeah, then he did a stint in New Orleans with another Beard winner, Chef John Besh. He’s also helped open a few restaurants along the way.
When I arrived at Metro, Chef Taylor was roasting veal bones for stock, and a rich stew perfume made the very air seem edible. With the Oct. 20 opening of Metro nearly upon him, Taylor was knee-deep in training and testing but graciously took a few minutes to chat.
How is a brasserie different from a bistro?
By definition, a bistro is more casual. If you were in France; a bistro might not have printed menus, and the hours wouldn’t be continuous. A brasserie is like an upscale brewery or pub. It’s accessible for blue collar and white collar alike, and is open late at night.
Describe Metro’s style of cuisine.
It’s my interpretation of country French food, which happens to have these other influences that have come upon me in my career.
What are some menu highlights?
Steak frites [steak with fries]; braised ham hocks with pickled beets; tempura-fried bacon with bourbon and maple syrup; grits; salt cod fritters with piquillo peppers; and beignets with Nutella.
Which dish are you hoping achieves bestseller status?
The pork cheeks, braised low and slow, because I love them.
What’s up with the grits?
I love grits and ate them all over the South. We’re getting ours from Anson Mills in South Carolina—the best grits in the whole world; they mill them to order and dry the corn on the cob. There are a lot of terrible grits out there. Once you try these, they will replace mashed potatoes as your go-to starch.
You say Metro is a place people will want to eat once or twice weekly. How so?
One thing is how affordable it is. You can come and get dinner for two for $50. Typically in a brassiere, a daily special is stated on the menu, and we’ll do the same thing here with cassoulets, bouillabaisses and a carafe of wine for two. For example, Fridays will always be a whole fish served in a cauldron—you take off the lid and it’s bubbling and steaming, served with a spoon.
Chef Matthew Taylor
was wowed by the velvety potato-leek soup at a famous New York restaurant, and created his own version.
He discovered he preferred the smoky, nutty flavors served cold. “Think eating pitas with hummus,” he says of the dish, now featured on Metro’s menu.
3 large russet or Idaho potatoes (peeled and diced)
4 leeks, sliced
2 stalks celery, sliced
1 bulb fennel, sliced
4 cloves garlic, crushed
6 cups water
1 cup heavy cream
6 Tbsp. tahini paste
¼ cup lemon juice
4 Tbsp. canola or grape seed oil
Olive oil (to garnish)
Chives (to garnish)
Salt
In a large pot, cook the leeks, fennel and celery in the oil until tender. Add the crushed garlic and cook another 3-5 minutes. Add half the tahini paste and cook an additional minute. Place the potatoes in the pot and cover with the water. Bring the liquid to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer until the potatoes are very tender. Add the cream and simmer an additional 5 minutes. In a blender, purée the entire mixture with the remaining tahini paste until smooth. Pass the soup through a fine strainer. Finish seasoning with desired amount of salt and lemon juice. Serve chilled with a garnish of chive and olive oil. For a low-calorie version, eliminate the cream. Serves 4.
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